Flora
The Gambia is situated in the subtropics. This means that nearly literally anything will grow, and so the country has a large variety in vegetation. The trees are most exotic. You will find mainly palm trees, of which the kola palm tree is most common, but the coconut palm is not rare either. Although palms are easiest to recognize, the mahogany and teak trees stand out as well. And how about the enormous cotton- or kapok tree? On top, you will find mango and cashew trees all over the country. However, the most intertwined with Gambian history and culture, and perhaps most noticeable for those who are interested, is the baobab tree.
The baobab tree
The baobab is the most widely discussed and noticeable tree in The Gambia. Mystical properties are assigned to the tree. Rumour has it that the baobab is the oldest organic being in Africa, or even on Earth. On average, this tree grows to be 16-17 meters (55 ft) tall. However, the trunk is what really makes it special. With a circumference of about 9 meters (30 ft), the baobab is easy to recognize, even more because the trunks are unpredictable, and often look as if many trunks grew into one. The tree and its products are used for many goals. It can easily become over 1000 years of age, and is almost never cut down, unless it has died. Many villages and compounds are built around a baobab.
Because of the many applications, the tree is of inconceivable value for the (inland) inhabitants of The Gambia. For example, the bark is boiled to make an anti-malaria substance, or it is used for ropes, wrapping for conservation, or even clothing. The baobab tree does not die after it has been stripped of its bark so many times; the remarkable thing about baobab trees is that they regenerate their bark, so parasites never really reach the core.
The fruits of baobab trees look like stones, but both the flesh and seeds are edible. The juice of the flesh is mixed with water and sugar to promote blood circulation and bowel movement; don’t eat too much of it! However, before you can get to eating the flesh, the fruit (stone-like) has to be opened with a heavy object, and to do so without damaging the flesh is quite hard. Monkeys, who eat the fruit as well, do not have problems with it, as they simply slam it on a rock until a hole is made from which they can drink the juice. Once this has been drunk, the rest of the fruit is opened in the same way, so they can reach the pulp. The edible leaves are used to prepare medication against rheumatoid arthritis, and the flowers serve as decoration.
If the baobab dies or is chopped for another reason, the trunk and sometimes thick branches are used to make canoes or fishing boats. All that is left, serves as firewood.
Of course, many legends about the tree circulate among the people, as it is part of every day life in The Gambia. Apparently, criminals’ corpses, ‘unworthy’ of a normal grave, were buried in the hollow trunk of the baobab. Also, travelling Griots (compare them to troubadours) could rest from their travels in the trunk of the tree.
Other vegetation
Another important share of the river Gambia’s vegetation consists of mangrove forests. In The Gambia they are often called mangrove swamps, as most of the trees grow in the water and mud of the river, so it looks like a swamp with some shrubbery on top. The mangrove only grows a few meters high, but dozens of bird-, fish- and reptile species live in them.
During the past few decades, the amount of forestry in The Gambia has decreased by 35%, mainly caused by burning by the people, who make charcoal for fires and cooking. Although this type of deforestation is illegal, it is still very common. Furthermore, the forest is often cut to make room for aggregation and compounds, and although this cutting is bound to rules, not many people abide to these, since they (are forced to) have other priorities.
Napier grass is another interesting type of vegetation in The Gambia. Unfortunately, it pops up like weeds, wherever it is not needed, and it is a true plague to any farmer. On top of that, almost all well-known bamboo types are found in The Gambia, of which the shoots provide a nice meal for many animal species. The bamboo itself is used for building homes, but also for making charcoal, which is illegal.
Flowers are abundant, and although they are often covered by red sand and dust from the roads, they never fail to show you their beautiful colours. Many plants you might cherish at home grow lavishly in hotel gardens. Very noticeable is the Scadodox multifloris, better known among Gambians as the Ba Jadbo. This red bullet-shaped flower grows in humid places throughout the entire year. The Hibiscus, with flowers twice or three times as big as on your window sill, is used as a fence, as a sort of hedgerow.
The magnificence of the Gambian flora reaches too far to name it profusely, but for lovers of flowers, the vegetation is most definitely more than satisfactory. Even on the north bank of the river or on the Central River Division, with regions that seem dry and withered (The Gambia is one of the so called Sahel-countries), you discover the exuberance of nature in many places.
Another type of vegetation that should be mentioned is the ‘quinine’ plant, a type of bush that allegedly also has healing effects. The juice from the thick leaves is used to cure wounds rapidly. A leaf or stalk in the cradle or on the body of a baby will protect it against various diseases. However, many other plant species are assigned these healing and protective properties. This plant is special because the branches are chewed on to clean the teeth and protect against malaria. Accordingly, you will often see Gambians with a short stick in their mouth, which they keep there at all times, apart from during meals. The leaves from this plant are boiled in a pint of water for a long time, to make a bitter potion against malaria. It is said that drinking this potion will make you immune against malaria for 3 years. Another story goes that if you have a toothache, all you do is rinse with extract from the cashew tree to make your pain disappear. However, you will probably prefer the fruit; in season, cashew nuts are also very cheap!
No one knows exactly how many different plant species grow in The Gambia. Last counts indicate a number of over 1000. These included trees, bushes, herbs, grasses and flowering plants. Research into the flora of the country still continues, but it will take a few more years until the list is complete.
In dry season, forest-fires are very common in The Gambia, and they are rarely extinguished, because nature repairs itself. Since there is hardly any wind, the fire stops as soon as it reaches a road or cleared out area. If you are travelling around The Gambia, you will often be confronted with charcoal black and burnt down trees. Also, do not be surprised when you do see a smouldering forest. Furthermore, you might see the farmland burn, but that is because the ashes are used to soil the earth for the new season.
Fauna
The Gambia is not a country where safaris are organised like in Kenya or South-Africa. Bird safaris, however, are very common. The country is a paradise for bird lovers and you encounter the most exotic sorts of birds. Regularly, new species are discovered. Up to now, over 450 different kinds of birds were registered, of which some of them can only be found in The Gambia. In the Abuko Nature Reserve alone, about 280 different kinds of birds reside. In hotel parks, if present, you might have the feeling you are in a tropical aviary. On top, along the beach, in the mangrove swamps, and along the desert border, you see birds of exotic beauty. The early morning is the time to watch birds, but right before dawn, they might show themselves as well. Most bird safaris are organized in the early morning. To study birds you really need binoculars, and you can't do without a telephoto lens when taking pictures.
Only in National Parks will you find the ‘big’ game: larger wildlife, but even there you will find only few. The last giraffe disappeared from The Gambia in the late 19th century, and the last elephant died in the start of the 20th. Various buffalo- and antelope types were once present in the landscape, but they were driven out or slaughtered by man. White people were, for that matter, not only, or perhaps not at all, responsible for this. Rumour has it that not very long ago, a leopard was shot by an inland poacher. Surprisingly, leopard tracks recently were discovered in Kiang West National Park. Furthermore, there are some persistent rumours of the presence of lions, and hippos and crocodiles live further inland in the river Gambia. With the help of a good guide, you may certainly see them. Also, there are some antelope species, wild boars (aardvarks) and warthogs live in The Gambia. So there is some ‘big game’ left, but you really have to search in order to see it.
However, if you want to discover the many (small) indigenous monkey species, you won’t have to search for long, because they are nearly everywhere in The Gambia. Stories go that they have even been spotted on the Denton Bridge, the most important main road to Banjul. If you take a trip through the forests or by the creeks, you will most definitely see them. Note: never chase a group of baboons for pictures, as they might become very aggressive!
There are a lot of snakes in The Gambia and there are some mean species among them. It's very difficult to see them and the first sign of storm and foreboding they quickly disappear, so it is really rare for you to see them. It's a rare thing for you to really see them. However, snakes live in the parks around hotels as well, although you will see the giant lizards probably more often. If you discover a snake by the hotel, please inform a guard or employee in the hotel. Also note that Gambians are terrified of snakes because of the story of Ninkee Nankaa.
Snakes are also found in the water, some of them with lethal bites. There are more than enough fish that can hurt you rather badly or even (temporarily) paralyse you with their prickles or fins. This is an important reason not to go out fishing without supervision by an expert. The most exotic fish live in the river Gambia and in the creeks through the mangrove swamps, although you can't compare these fish with the colourful sorts that live near coral reefs in tropical waters. Sometimes you are dealing with rare species like the guitar- fish (which has a striking resemblance to a friendly balalaika), the frog fish, or the lungfish. The mudfish, no stranger in the swamps, uses its fins to move forward and even manages to climb trees. Larger animals such as dolphins can be found in these waters as well, of course, especially if you make a boat trip on the river Gambia. As a result of the lack of barriers, the river is salt and brine from the coast till 150 to 180 kilometres inland, in the dry season even up to 240 km. Further inland on the river, you will find hippos. Evening- or night excursions, especially for watching night birds, are organised from the Baobolong Camp on JanjangBureh Island, and you are bound to find hippos on these trips as well. As a matter of fact, you will find traces of hippos moving onto the land in many places by the river. If, you visit the crocodile pools in Bakau or Berending and do not get a chance to see crocodiles, you might be luckier on the river. Various types of crocodiles reside in the river Gambia, among which the Nile crocodile; a reason not to take a refreshing dip into the river.
Summary
Fauna in The Gambia is still researched, and will take years before a complete list is drawn up. Up till now, the following have been discovered:
- 3 larger types of mammals: hippopotamus, warthog and spotted hyena;
- 58 smaller mammals, among which 37 bat types;
- 560 bird species, with at least 220 species brooding in The Gambia
- over 620 fish species, by the coast and in the river
- 72 reptile species, among which 4 sea turtle species, 7 sweet water turtle species, 2 tortoise species, 17 lizard species, 3 types of crocodiles and 37 snake types;
- the 33 types of amphibians include 4 types of toads and 29 frog species.
National Parks
There are various national parks and wild life reserves in The Gambia. Most well-known and open to public is the Abuko Nature Reserve. The Baboon Island National Park, west of JanjangBureh, is partly closed to public. As the name suggests, you may expect lots of baboons here. However, they are found in the wild in The Gambia as well. More importantly, the only chimps left in The Gambia may be found in this reserve.
The Kiang West National Park is open to public, and annually has between 1500 and 2000 visitors. It is the largest nature reserve, with 11,000 hectares, including a visitors’ centre where you can get an impression of The Gambia’s fauna and flora, sometimes with the aid of video footage. You best have a good guide when you visit the park. Also, if you’re visiting Tendaba Camp, a trip to K.W.N.P. is often included. If you visit the park by yourself, please make sure you have equipment and clothing fit for the tropics. Never forget to bring (ample) water. You will even be allowed to cook and spend the night in the park, but only if you’ve had information and permission from one of the park guards. Near all access roads to the park, people know where you can find the park guard. The park is accessible from 5 different villages: Jali, Kolikunda, Baljana, Batteling and Dumbuto (from the main road). You will find various types of tropical trees, mangrove swamps and other types of landscape, such as savannah in the park. Bird life is extremely varied in these surroundings, which is the reason that the park’s symbol is a bateleur eagle. Thanks to the fact that many park- and nature guards are occupied with this park, new bird species, unknown to live in The Gambia as well, are discovered here. The Laughing Falcon, for example, was observed first in 1995. This bird is a snake eater, and was thought only to live in Mexico and Argentina.
In the park, you will find dozens of snake species, but also monkeys, wild boars and other small wildlife. Also, traces of leopards have been found. Most guides will tell you that you might see antelopes, but they have not been seen since a great forest fire in 1974. Several years ago, the remains of a Portuguese trade post were discovered. The few remains (a stone staircase that once formed the access to the post) have been accessible since 1996. The settlement was abandoned in 1816. There are still 4 canons, which were originally on a Portuguese ship that sunk in the river, left in Batteling. Another small one got stolen.
The Abuko Nature Reserve, founded by president Jawara in 1967 on request of an Englishman named Brewer, has remained a real natural park. Here, you can see the jungle as it should be. A 3 km (2 mile) path meanders through this part of untouched nature, and it is ideal for you to admire the various trees and bushes. Liana’s grow through all types of other vegetation, and the oil palms, growing up to over 30 meters (100 ft) tall are really very impressive. The reserve is especially well-known for the great number of birds that reside there. Recently, counting indicated a number over 280 different bird species. At the end of a path, you will find some buildings which give shelter to the animals, but also have a kiosk that sells refreshments. In these shelters, you will see lions (from an exchange programme with the Beekse Bergen zoo near Tilburg), hyenas, antelopes and various small felines. Also, this nature reserve has a rehabilitation centre for monkeys, where specially educated trainers help chimps and gorillas born and raised in captivity to adjust to nature, so they can be placed back into the wild. Zoos from all over the world participate in this project.
On the way to the kiosk with refreshments, you will pass a crocodile pool. The water supply in the pool was initially a natural supply, but it is currently connected to public water supply. There is a look-out by the pool, where you can read all sorts of information about the reserve, and watch crocodiles and the many different types of birds. During the trip through the reserve, you might sometimes be disturbed by activity in the trees, where the monkeys reside. For any spider lovers: the largest spiders found here measured 11 cm (over 4 inches), with a web stretching over 5 meters (over 17 ft). There is only path, so you walk around the path, and with so much variation in the fauna and flora, you will not once have the idea you are seeing the same part twice. Do not forget to bring your binoculars!
There are some places that should not officially be mentioned as national parks, but are definitely worth visiting, and easily accessible.
In the direct vicinity of the Sunset Beach Hotel, the Palm Beach Hotel and the Badala Park Hotel, you find pieces of land that flood with high tide. With low tide, these areas dry up, but dozens of sea animal species and fish are washed ashore. The same happens between Bakau and the main road from Banjul-Serrekunda; this area is also easily accessible. If you quietly want to observe or photograph birds, these areas are highly recommended; a true Walhalla for birds and bird watchers! Close to the aforementioned hotels, you can hire a guide and expert in bird species.
The Bijilo Park is within walking distance from the hotels in Kololi, and has a really wide range of bird species, but also monkeys are not ill-represented. This park is a true paradise for bird lovers in the early morning.
You will find so called Forest Parks in many places, an initiative started with lots of foreign help from, for example, Germany. These parks are actually production forests, to prevent that The Gambia’s forests were all chopped, and are usually not freely accessible without accompaniment of a forester. The yielding is usually used for construction of houses etc, and the rest is exported. Villagers in the neighbourhood are free to use wood from the Forest Parks for the preparation of meals. Sale by the villagers is prohibited, because the silvicultures arrange the sale of all excess wood. You will also find orchid horticulture by some of the forestries, for example near the one in Dumboto.
The Gambian government becomes more and more protective of the mangrove swamps by the river, but because they provide income for hundreds of families (from oysters), the rules are not too strict yet. In The Gambia, these swamps are referred to as wetlands, and in many places, boat trips are organised, for example by the Baobolong Wetland Reserve near Tendaba. In a very relaxing atmosphere, you can sail through a unique part of nature, inhabited by dozens bird species, hundreds of lizards of any kind and thousands of mudskippers and crabs.